Some might think New York Fashion Week is about the clothes, but it’s the makeup that causes every front rower’s jaw to drop. From burgundy glitter tears, a contemporary take on the classic cat eye and sexily sooty gothic eyeshadow, NYFW17 set the beauty bar even higher than the season before. We’ve trawled through hundreds of galleries and backstage albums to bring you the beauty looks your clients will be asking for all year:
Tome – Created by Diane Kendal, models were sent down the runway with naturally matte skin and a brush of silver pigment above the cheekbone or across the eyelid.
Nicholas-K – Makeup artist Sarah Lucero used the Stila Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Golden Goddess to line both the upper and lower lashline. A light contouring enhanced the warm glow of the look, and Lucero finished with a swipe of Stila Apricot Lip Glaze, a pinky-nude shade with a slick finish.
Narun Nevader – A heavy dusting of silver eyeshadow across the eyes and brows was enhanced by a set of ’60s-esque eyelashes and peachy blush.
La Perla – Makeup artist Erin Parsons created either a burgundy lip or eye for each model using a variety of Maybelline products. Inspired by the ‘British gardens’ set, Parsons added a touch of gentleness to the bold lips by wiping a hint colour from the centre.
Erin-Fetherston – Artist Kelli J. Bartlett was inspired by the collection’s free spirited nature, using a damped beauty blender, illuminating cream and a MAC cream highlighter to create a fresh and flawless complexion. Wine shaded lips were free of colour around the edges and toned down in the center.
Delpozo – Makuep artist Monica Marmo used soft pinks and orangey golds from MAC to create a contemporary feminine look that was perfectly complemented by strong brows and glossy lips.
Custo Barcelona – The full-bodied yellow gold eyeshadow dominated this look, with lightly contoured and nude lips acting as a blank (but beautiful) canvas.
Jason Wu – Artist Yadim used Kryolan pigment to create Jason Wu’s ‘raver red’ yet velveteen lips, leaving the rest of the complexion dewy and light.
Anna Sui – Pat McGrath sent the girls down the catwalk with statement eyes and lips inspired by the ‘60s. A mix of colours was used to create the wine-stained lids before being dabbed with balm. A soft highlight to the brow bone for dimension and a blotted burgundy gloss completed the look.
Mar Jacobs – According to Elle U.S, Jacobs wanted the girls to look like they’d been “at the club a little,” explained makeup artist François Nars. “The grease on the eyes makes the makeup look a little bit more lived in.” Nars and his team created six complementary lid looks in varying pastel shades. “We didn’t want to do something over-the-top with makeup,” he reiterated. “It’s really all about the hair.”
Carolina Herrera – Smokey eyes and a bold red could have been over-kill, but makeup artist Diane Kendal balanced them out perfectly. Sooty shadow and a lip and cheek stain called Flames from MAC were the centre of this standout look.
Alexander Wang – Models were looked like they’d walked straight off the beach, with makeup artist Dianne Kendal applying a mix of matte brown and rosy blush to the top of the cheeks for a sunkissed and dewy look.
Thom Browne – This psychedelic ‘60s beach look was one of the most daring of the season, with sky blue matte lips and a Malibu Barbie tan clashing well and truly with Browne’s kooky designs.
DKNY – Vampy oxblood lips and minimal eyes keep this look dramatic and contemporary goth-chic. Pat McGrath keep eyes natural with a light wash of pastel gold eyeshadow.
Opening Ceremony – Makeup artist Yadim used gel liner to create an elongated wing before applying a pastel white highlighter to the brow bone. Yadim described the look as “a deconstructed pageant queen”.
Jonathan Simkhai – Artist Gato created a sophisticated but fresh look, using a touch of bronzer to add a healthy glow. Stobing and highlighting were used to enhance the model’s visage, with a single coat of mascara to keep it as natural as possible.
Jeremy Scott – A hint of pastel rose eyeshadow and matching blush were paired with Twiggy-esque false lashes with an emphasis on the bottom row. The waterline was brightened up with a white pencil while every second model was given bleached brows.
Honee – The eyes were the focus here, with the Cleopatra liner enhanced with a slick of molten gold. The visage was heavily powdered to create a geisha-esque look, with models alternating between red bow and nude lips.
Cushnie et Ochs – Miami in the ‘80s and Scarface were the inspiration here, with colour blocked lips and a hint of taupe eyeshadow creating a sophisticated and bold look. Makeup artists used a cherry matte red on model’s top lip before applying a hot pink shade on the bottom.
Christian Siriano – Burgundy glitter tears, MAC’s Reflects Copper Glitter and lashings of mascara kept the emphasis on the eyes for this look, with model’s brows and lips kept natural.
Adeam – Makeup artist Sada Ito told The Knockturnal that the inspiration for the look was Japanese calligraphy. “So I draw the eyebrow almost like Japanese Calligraphy. Strong eyebrow, and then all the models are young and fresh so I put orange red lipstick to give them energy.”
Adam Selman – Emi Kaneko created a healthy-looking flush by using bronzer on the cheeks, eyes and temples. According to Kaneko, the Adam Selman woman is “too cool for mascara,” with lashes left bare as a result.
Prabal Gurung – Prabal Gurung saw the creation of an ultra-modern cat-eye, with shades varying from cyan, green, red, sky blue, orange and navy. Makeup artist Diane Kendal explained that Gurung, inspired by the women’s rights movement past and present, wanted the cast to look “really strong and powerful. He didn’t want to do conventional ‘beautiful’ makeup.”
Creatures of the Wind – Styled with makeup inspired by PJ Harvey, smooth and satiny skin was beautifully offset with a dramatic red lip and a touch of white eyeshadow.