What Is Panthenol and How Does the Ingredient Work to Reduce Water Loss in the Skin?

Surrounding the launch of Evidence Skincare (ESK)’s Hydraboost HA Serum, Hannah Gay caught up with brand co-founder, Dr Ginni Mansberg to understand why panthenol is regularly featured in product ingredient lists.

What does panthenol do to the skin when applied topically?

“Panthenol (a.k.a. dexpanthenol or provitamin B5) acts both as an emollient (forms a light film on the skin filling the gaps between dry skin cells and helps reduce water loss from the skin) and a humectant (binds with water increasing hydration of the stratum corneum). It also has emerging evidence for improving skin barrier function, increasing skin hydration, reducing skin irritation and assisting in repair of skin injury.

What can hyaluronic acid solutions combined with panthenol achieve that solutions without panthenol not achieve?

“There are a number of studies of hyaluronic acid at various molecular weights without panthenol that show benefits. Panthenol is an effective skin barrier builder with added emollient and humectant properties which adds even more hydration to the skin. Secondly, it can mitigate some of the potential inflammation that can be caused by the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it far better tolerated by people with sensitive skin.” 

True or false: consuming foods containing panthenol (Vitamin B5) can help to increase skin hydration levels to the same extent if the ingredient were applied topically?

“Probably false. We haven’t seen any studies of vitamin B5 supplements for skin health, but even Vitamin B5 deficiency – which is terribly rare – doesn’t cause dry skin. It’s more headaches, gastrointestinal effects and fatigue.”

ESK has recently launched its first hyaluronic acid-based serum in Hydraboost HA Serum. What prompted you to introduce a product designed to increase skin hydration levels?

“According to a recent ESK study, approximately 60 per cent of ESK customers have indicated skin hydration is a concern (including some with combination skin).

HA has emerging evidence, not just for skin hydration but for building collagen, reducing inflammation and wound healing. And we feel this product will complement our current skincare product offering, by combining the benefits of HA with the needs of so many of our customers.”

What is the benefit to formulating with HA at varying low, medium and high weights, as opposed to all at the same weight?

“High Molecular weight HA binds strongly to water and moisturises the skin but it does not penetrate the epidermis. While it has some anti-inflammatory properties, it has limited therapeutic impact when applied to the surface of the skin.

Low Molecular weight HA does penetrate the epidermis and has some of the better evidence for skin aging, repair and helping with the management of rosacea and eczema, however there are reports of occasional sensitivity (discomfort and flaky skin) from its inflammatory effect.

In order to get the benefits that HA has to offer and reduce the risks of occasional sensitivity, the optimal formulation includes a combination of high through to low molecular weights.” 

How would you typically recommend Hydraboost HA Serum be incorporated into a user’s skincare routine?

“Apply twice a day, after cleansing as the FIRST step in your skin care routine. If using in conjunction with other active serums such as a Vitamin C or an AHA or PHA, apply the Hydraboost HA Serum first, and then your day or night routine to maximise effects.”

Here are 10 professional skincare products high in panthenol:

demaviduals panthenol

Dermaviduals D-Panthenol

pca panthenol

PCA SKIN Hyaluronic Acid Overnight Mask

vivology panthenol

Viviology Niacinamide + HA Serum

mesoestetic panthenol

mesoestetic Hydratonic Mist

skin virtue panthenol

Skin Virtue Future Advanced Radiance Serum

medik8 panthenol

Medik8 Eyes & Lips Micellar Cleanse

beaute pacifique panthenol

Beauté Pacifique SuperFruit Moisture Skin Enforcement Serum

dermalogica panthenol

Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster

esk panthenol

ESK Hydraboost HA Serum

alpha-h panthenol

Alpha-H High Tide Water Cream with Australian River Mint

Read the current issue of our digital magazine here:

Have an idea for a story or want to see a topic covered on our site and in our pages? Get in touch at info@professionalbeauty.com.au.

Back to top