Take DHA, but make it natural. Tanning never looked, felt (or smelt) so good. Jessica Giraldi, Head of Education at Professional Beauty Solutions (distributor of Sunescape Tan), discusses the benefits of natural DHA tanning products.
What is dihydroxyacetone (DHA) in tanning solutions?
“Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the main active ingredient in most sunless tanning products, including spray tans, lotions and creams. It is a simple carbohydrate derived from natural sources like sugar beets, sugar cane, or through chemical synthesis. When applied to the skin, DHA reacts with the amino acids in the outermost layer of the epidermis. This reaction produces brown-coloured compounds called melanoidins, which mimic a suntan to provide a temporary tan effect.”
What distinguishes a natural DHA from a synthetic or chemical DHA?
“While there are many key differences between a natural DHA and a synthetic/chemical DHA (down to the source and production, to the purity and quality of the product), identifying what product uses natural DHA versus synthetic DHA often comes down to the smell and colour results.
The unwanted fake tan smell in many tanning products is a direct result of synthetic DHA. Alongside synthetic DHA are generally other toxins such as parabens, formaldehyde and petrochemicals which can cause increased irritation to the skin and uneven colour development, leaving skin with an unnatural looking tan. Natural DHA, on the other hand, interacts with the protein and amino acids in the outer layer of the skin to produce a natural golden-brown colour, without the unpleasant odour.
Apart from the unwanted smell, the main benefit of using a naturally-derived DHA is that it’s gentler on the skin, reducing the risk of irritation, dryness or unnatural orange tone. Plus, it’s made to react in the top layers of dead skin cells, meaning it’s much less likely to end up in your bloodstream, unlike chemical DHAs.”
What ingredients are used to develop Sunescape’s natural DHA?
“Sunescape uses certified natural DHA derived from beetroot and rapa seed.”
Is it more cumbersome (financially, physically, time-wise) to produce a tanning solution that contains natural DHA?
“Yes. This comes down to the limited supply/ demand for natural DHA, the fact that it’s more physically complex to produce compared to chemical DHA, along with longer manufacturing times due to the fermentation and purification process of natural DHA.”
In light of the above, do tanning solutions containing natural DHA fetch a higher cost?
“Generally speaking, yes. This is due to the sourcing, production and regulatory costs involved with naturally-derived ingredients compared to those chemically manufactured.”
Talk us through the benefits of working with a natural DHA product (from the therapist’s POV), as well as the benefits of wearing a natural DHA product (from the consumer’s POV).
“Since natural DHA is free from harsh chemicals, therapists experience less exposure to potentially harmful fumes or allergens, making their working environment safer and more comfortable. Plus, there is no unpleasant or nasty fake tan smell.
Benefits for the consumer include no unpleasant odour, a streak-free (and even) tan that looks natural without orange undertones, it’s more hydrating and nourishing, plus it’s gentler on the skin, making it ideal for all skin types (even sensitive skin).”
Do you believe consumers are becoming more aware of the differences between natural and synthetic/chemical DHA in their products?
“Yes. With the rise of clean beauty trends and a greater emphasis on ingredient transparency, many consumers are paying closer attention to what ingredients are in the products they are using.”
8 Natural DHA Tanning Products to Buy In Salons
1. INIKA Organic Natural Tanning Mist
Total Beauty Network, 1300 765 332
2. Island Vibes DIY Tanning Foam
I.V Island Vibes, hello@island-vibes.com.au
3. Self Tan by O COSMEDICS Bronzing Mist
INSKIN COSMEDICS, 02 9712 8188
4. Natural Look Summer Kiss Spray Tanning Mist
Artav Australia, 1800 805 276
5. Norvell Glow System Skin Renewing Body Butter
Sunless Australia, 1800 960 010
6. LYCON LYCO-BRONZE Rapid Spray Tan
LYCON Cosmetics Australia, 07 3004 6200
7. Sunescape 2 Hour Rapid Tan
Professional Beauty Solutions, 1800 625 387
8. Naked Tan Bronzing Mousse
Naked Tan Australia, 02 4227 5476
Interview: Hannah Gay | Photography: iStock/lambada/Supplied
This article originally appeared in the Issue 02 2025 print issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Read it here.
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