QUESTION: Vogue UK recently nominated the following skincare ingredients as ‘on trend’. Which of these ingredients do you regard as the most influential in current formulations?

  • Vitamin F
  • Niacinamide
  • Mandelic acid
  • Marula oil
  • Copper
  • Retinol
  • Squalane

LEARNING: WHILE ALL OF THESE INGREDIENTS HAVE A ROLE TO PLAY, HEADING BACK TO BASICS IS A COMMON RECOMMENDATION BY OUR EXPERTS.

Lisa Zwart picked vitamin F and squalane.

“These days we’re seeing a lot of skins that are quite barrier impaired. Barriers have been treated incorrectly with severely harsh treatments, so I’ve gone back to basics because nothing else is really going to work unless you get that barrier functioning at a good level.”

Beth Charlton agreed with Lisa.

“Definitely squalane would be my top pick. Of course, once the barrier is repaired, I would like to look at ingredients such as niacinamide and also retinol to introduce to a client.”

Jodi Ayre couldn’t pick between niacinamide and retinol.

“What I love about niacinamide is that we’re able to support hydration. We can support with healing and repair, but I love also that we’re able to stimulate the antimicrobial peptides in the skin. I also love retinol – it delivers phenomenal results in skin.”

Shellie Pearson said to bear in mind that trends come and go, but skin doesn’t change.

“We all know that if that [skin barrier defence system] is not in place, perhaps that active ingredient isn’t going to do its job properly or to its best.”

Michelle Reeve loves how the industry is working and is moving away from a one magic bullet approach.

“It’s really hard to choose one and that layered approach is getting barrier function working well. Then it’s that synergistic approach of combining those beautiful essential fatty acids through vitamin F with those cosmeceutical actives and using the multifunctional approach… there’s room for all of these.”