The buzz-product of 2021 is shaping up to be Vitamin C serums. Educated customers are clued in on the benefits of the ingredient, and the pressure is on skin therapists to ensure they have an in-salon offering. But just what is it about the wonder ingredient that has customers seeking it out?

Proven as an effective treatment for fine lines and wrinkles as well as pigmentation and texture, Vitamin C is ideal for both young and mature skin types, and marries well with a long list of other actives.

By helping to boost collagen production when applied topically – rather than orally – Vitamin C maintains a skin barrier function and improves the body’s natural ability to heal wounds.

Riding on the wave of Vitamin C’s popularity, ESK has created Reverse C Serum and C Serum Lite.

Containing 10 percent L-Ascorbic Acid, a concentration which balances strong evidence for high skin tolerance and product stability, the Reverse C Serum and C Serum Lite by Evidence Skincare (ESK) is formulated to combat UV-induced free radicals, improve collagen synthesis, reduce hyperpigmentation, and protect against sun damage.

Unlike plants and most animals, Vitamin C cannot be synthesised by the human body due to the absence of an enzyme called L-gulono-gamma-lactone oxidase. While we are able to obtain supplementation from our food and skincare, not all Vitamin C derivatives are created equal which makes the ingredient notoriously hard for consumers to navigate.

On a mission to educate and empower consumers with science and knowledge, Australian GP and co-founder of Evidence Skincare (ESK), Dr. Ginni Mansberg, recommends L-Ascorbic Acid as the only evidence-based form of topical Vitamin C shown in studies to reverse the signs of premature ageing.

“Although some manufacturers will bond Vitamin C to other chemicals such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate to improve its stability and absorption, L-Ascorbic Acid is the only reliable form of Vitamin C on the market with strong, documented evidence supporting its anti-ageing benefits,” said Dr. Ginni.

“As a highly unstable molecule, L-Ascorbic Acid must be formulated at a pH of 3.5 or less to penetrate the skin’s waterproof barrier and remain stable. “It must also be packaged in an opaque, airless bottle to ensure its long-term effectiveness and protect from oxidisation,” said Dr. Ginni.

Formulated to meet these particular requirements, the Reverse C Serum combines 1% Tocopherol (Vitamin E) which evidence suggests increases the effectiveness of L-Ascorbic Acid. C Serum Lite, an option ideal for oiler skin types, is formulated in an anhydrous base to provide optimal skin penetration without the added hydration.

“Vitamin C is a must-have ingredient for all age groups,” said Dr. Ginni. “It protects your skin from free radicals created by excess exposure to the sun, cigarette smoking, and other environmental pollutants. “It also combats inflammation and other cellular processes that accelerate ageing in the skin.”

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