Shine Skin and Body Owner, Sheridan Rollard looks beyond topical 5-alpha reductase inhibitors in treating vulnerable skin.
As skin therapists, we know that acne is never just a surface issue. It’s a multifactorial condition, and our role is to identify and treat the four key drivers we can influence: inflammation, hyperkeratinisation, bacteria, and the quality and quantity of oil.
While topical 5-alpha reductase inhibitors are excellent tools for managing oil, they’re just one piece of the puzzle; there’s so much more we can do.
There was a time when acne treatment relied heavily on acids. That approach is now outdated. With advances in skin science and ingredient technology, we understand that repeatedly compromising the barrier creates long-term issues— inflammation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, delayed healing, and even scarring. If the barrier is broken, no acne treatment will perform effectively. That’s why our first non-negotiable step must always be barrier repair. Only once the skin is stable and functioning can we begin to address the relevant acne drivers.
This is where a professional, simple skincare routine becomes powerful. It may not feel exciting, but it is essential. A quality cleanser, moisturiser and SPF lay the foundation for reducing chronic inflammation and rebalancing the skin. Get this right, and you’re already managing one of the four drivers: inflammation.
Once the barrier is rebuilt, we can work more specifically. For excess oil production and poor-quality sebum, EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) is one of the most underrated, yet powerful, ingredients we have. A component of green tea, EGCG works by modulating the androgen receptor, reducing the first stage of hormonal conversion that contributes to increased sebum. It also helps regulate hyperkeratinisation, improving the skin’s natural desquamation process and reducing congestion.
To address the bacterial component, blue LED light is an excellent adjunct therapy. It specifically targets C. acnes bacteria, reducing its presence without disrupting the microbiome or compromising the barrier. It’s gentle, effective, and particularly beneficial in the early stages of treatment when skin may not yet tolerate actives.
The key is to not jump to acids or advanced treatments first. Instead, assess the skin in front of you. Which of the four acne drivers are active? Then select tools that address them directly, starting with barrier repair and moving forward with purpose. When you do this, you’re not just managing breakouts, you’re supporting long-term skin health and function.
Photography: iStock/Supplied
This article originally appeared in the Issue 03 2025 print issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Read it here.
Read the current issue of our digital magazine here:
- For more news and updates, subscribe to our weekly newsletter
- Follow us on Instagram
- Like us on Facebook
- Join Australia’s largest network of beauty industry professionals on LinkedIn
- Subscribe to our print magazine
Have an idea for a story or want to see a topic covered on our site and in our pages? Get in touch at info@professionalbeauty.com.au.